Forget the Beach Chairs: 3 Riviera Trails Best Walked in Autumn

When the summer beach umbrellas disappear along the Ionian shore, the coastline reveals its true character. The towering Ceraunian Mountains drop directly into the sea from the Llogara Pass, creating steep drops and dramatic valleys best explored on foot. With autumn daytime temperatures hovering between 18°C and 22°C, walking these paths is far more comfortable than in the midsummer heat.

Limestone Canyons and Olive Trails

One of the most rewarding coastal routes leads to Gjipe Beach and its magnificent gorge. Reaching this secluded bay typically requires a capable 4x4, but hikers can bypass the rough track entirely by walking in from Dhërmi or Drymades. The reward at the end is Gjipe Canyon, where seasonal torrents have carved sheer red and grey limestone cliffs rising up to 70 meters high.

Further south, the slopes around Himarë provide gentler yet equally scenic terrain. Starting near the historic ruins of Himarë Castle, marked trail sections wind through ancient, terraced olive groves before dropping down toward Livadh Beach or pressing onward across the headlands toward Jala. The higher vantage points deliver unbroken panoramic views over the turquoise shoreline below.

Fortresses and Sheltered Waters

Continuing down the coast brings you to Porto Palermo, where walking paths skirt a deep, natural bay. Ali Pasha’s triangular fortress sits prominently on an islet linked to the mainland by a narrow stone causeway. Because the surrounding bay is naturally protected, its flat waters remain calm for sea kayaking and shoreline strolls even when open sea swells pick up offshore. With seasonal excursion boats largely winding down by mid-autumn, exploring on foot—or arranging a private boat from Himarë or Sarandë—becomes the finest way to experience these waters.

Quick tips for autumn hiking: * Start early: Daylight hours shorten noticeably by late October, so set out in the morning for longer valley and canyon walks. * Wear proper shoes: Coastal tracks cross sharp karst limestone, loose scree, and rugged goat paths that demand solid footwear with dependable grip. * Plan transport ahead: Seasonal boat tours wind down in autumn, so look to local private boat hires from Himarë or Sarandë if you wish to combine hiking with sea transfers.